137k of walking (and that doesn't include extras like up and down to dinner)
what a week it has been
I finished about an hour ago
And it is now raining
How perfect has my trip to England been?
The weather has been absolutely spectacular
My host b&bs have been awesome
People along the way have been great, welcoming, smiling, friendly
My feet are very sore and tired, but not blistered!
Off to London by train tomorrow
Then off for a new adventure
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Studland
Another beautiful walk along the coast.
Swanage has a beautiful beach area
And these very strange huts along the beach
They are about 8x8 or so and butted up against each other
They are little cabins with kitchen areas, sitting areas, and closet areas
Some are rented, some are owned
They have strings of about 20 of them together all along the beach
Today's walk took me to Old Harry's Rock at the point of Studland Beach and then on to Studland itself
There are in fact no studs there
I had lunch at a tiny shack on a small beach
There were lots of boats anchored offshore
Then these two octogenarians pulled up in a pontoon
They were lots of fun to watch, one was getting out and didn't want to get his feet wet, so they threw out the oars, which he stepped on to reach the beach. It took quite a while and the small crowd at the cafe cheered and clapped when he finally accomplished his feat. Up he came to buy some ice cream and back he went to do it on reverse. it took quite a while again, and he almost fell in the water a few times, but he made it, and off they went.
Today was a loop, so back to town (4miles) a quick trip to the bookstore (nothing worth carrying) and the drugstore
Fish and chips (yum) and a climb back to the b&b
British Big Brother (a hoot -- they are almost impossible to understand) and an early night
Swanage has a beautiful beach area
And these very strange huts along the beach
They are about 8x8 or so and butted up against each other
They are little cabins with kitchen areas, sitting areas, and closet areas
Some are rented, some are owned
They have strings of about 20 of them together all along the beach
Today's walk took me to Old Harry's Rock at the point of Studland Beach and then on to Studland itself
There are in fact no studs there
I had lunch at a tiny shack on a small beach
There were lots of boats anchored offshore
Then these two octogenarians pulled up in a pontoon
They were lots of fun to watch, one was getting out and didn't want to get his feet wet, so they threw out the oars, which he stepped on to reach the beach. It took quite a while and the small crowd at the cafe cheered and clapped when he finally accomplished his feat. Up he came to buy some ice cream and back he went to do it on reverse. it took quite a while again, and he almost fell in the water a few times, but he made it, and off they went.
Today was a loop, so back to town (4miles) a quick trip to the bookstore (nothing worth carrying) and the drugstore
Fish and chips (yum) and a climb back to the b&b
British Big Brother (a hoot -- they are almost impossible to understand) and an early night
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
since Weymouth?
i have walked miles and miles and miles
into Kingston, not one jail (yay)
onto Corfe Castle, pretty ruinous
through cow pastures
and cow patties
through sheep pastures
and sheep pies
along the coast
up the ridges
down the ridges
around beautiful coves
through lovely shaded woods
past prickly scrapy thorns
into sleepy seaside towns
and bustling seaside towns
had amazing fish and chips
yummy oysters
prawns (not so much fun peeling and eating those)
beautiful weather
and comfy beds
off to breakfast
and a spin through town,
for an 12mile walk
and to find a printer for my next set of trsin/plane tickets
into Kingston, not one jail (yay)
onto Corfe Castle, pretty ruinous
through cow pastures
and cow patties
through sheep pastures
and sheep pies
along the coast
up the ridges
down the ridges
around beautiful coves
through lovely shaded woods
past prickly scrapy thorns
into sleepy seaside towns
and bustling seaside towns
had amazing fish and chips
yummy oysters
prawns (not so much fun peeling and eating those)
beautiful weather
and comfy beds
off to breakfast
and a spin through town,
for an 12mile walk
and to find a printer for my next set of trsin/plane tickets
Saturday, June 22, 2013
more readable
i love the look of the other blog format
but it was a bit hard to read
hopefully this will be easier on the eyes
but it was a bit hard to read
hopefully this will be easier on the eyes
Weymouth, if you haven't been -- go
It is seriously a beautiful town
great promenade along the beach
beautiful historic buildings
lots of character
amazing beach, and the Brits are a hardy bunch, they were all swimming away, it is cold in that water
it was a breezy sunny evening,
great for a stroll and findinf the perfect fish and chip shop
and it was very good
my next stop is Lulworth Cove
walking along the cliffs
with amazing views
but fierce winds
i have never experienced winds like that
i had to stop to brace myself against them
i worried that i would be impaled by the barbed wire fences or thrown over the cliff into the sea below
but perfect weather again for walking
it was a long walk today 10.5miles to the cove, then another mile to the b&b
i fell on the sidewalk when i was almost there
no blood thankfully
but an old man on the other side saw me
came over and then turned his back on me
good thing, my pride was seriously hurt and i could feel the tears coming
nice comfy b&b
fish and chips forndinner
Friday, June 21, 2013
Abbotsbury to Weymouth
this one gets lists:
how many cattle fences was I zapped by? One, but that is definitely all it takes,
how many farmers laughed about said zapping? one (prick)
how many backtracked routes? at least 6
how many extra miles? at least 5
how many stinging nettle patches? three and those suckers are aptly named -- capris are not the way to dive through them, thank goodness I thought to put on my raincoat
how many muddy bogs -- two, very nervously -- kept worrying about slipping and losing a boot
how many helpful strangers slipped on a cow pie, got covered in said cow pie and almost took me out with them? also one, and again, that's all it takes, poor woman, she was a mess, but I am so glad it wasn't me, it was a long way to a laundry spot
how many wet soggy boots?" two, and it is 6am, they aren't dry yet, it is an easy roadway kind of day, think the sandals will have to do
how many sleepless nights? one, not sure why -- although the nearby bar seemed to party late into the night
how many cattle fences was I zapped by? One, but that is definitely all it takes,
how many farmers laughed about said zapping? one (prick)
how many backtracked routes? at least 6
how many extra miles? at least 5
how many stinging nettle patches? three and those suckers are aptly named -- capris are not the way to dive through them, thank goodness I thought to put on my raincoat
how many muddy bogs -- two, very nervously -- kept worrying about slipping and losing a boot
how many helpful strangers slipped on a cow pie, got covered in said cow pie and almost took me out with them? also one, and again, that's all it takes, poor woman, she was a mess, but I am so glad it wasn't me, it was a long way to a laundry spot
how many wet soggy boots?" two, and it is 6am, they aren't dry yet, it is an easy roadway kind of day, think the sandals will have to do
how many sleepless nights? one, not sure why -- although the nearby bar seemed to party late into the night
West Bay to Abbotsbury
breakfast was bacon sandwich
really embracing my inner bread eater
a perfectly drizzly day for a walk
first i had to make it over the cliff
which I did, yay me
then another one,
it was misty and just the right temperature for walking
it was pretty easy going
and i didnt have too much trouble following the guidebook
had lunch at the Hive -- another bacon sandwich
i love british bacon, yum yum
i did walk into Abbotbury at about 2:30
and discovered that my room would not be available until 5
so off to the Swannery, where some cygnets are in the midst of hatching
great way to kill a few hours and add another 4 miles to your day
back into town and dinner at The Swan, baguette with BLT, yes more of that british bacon and it was a very yummy baguette
if i had read my guidebook clearly i would have seen that it was 15k, plus the extrabfor the swannery, i was bagged
the b&b was ready for me
by 9:00 lights were out and i was out as well
really embracing my inner bread eater
a perfectly drizzly day for a walk
first i had to make it over the cliff
which I did, yay me
then another one,
it was misty and just the right temperature for walking
it was pretty easy going
and i didnt have too much trouble following the guidebook
had lunch at the Hive -- another bacon sandwich
i love british bacon, yum yum
i did walk into Abbotbury at about 2:30
and discovered that my room would not be available until 5
so off to the Swannery, where some cygnets are in the midst of hatching
great way to kill a few hours and add another 4 miles to your day
back into town and dinner at The Swan, baguette with BLT, yes more of that british bacon and it was a very yummy baguette
if i had read my guidebook clearly i would have seen that it was 15k, plus the extrabfor the swannery, i was bagged
the b&b was ready for me
by 9:00 lights were out and i was out as well
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Charmouth to West Bay
ok, so this is the day
another first day of walking
it is absolutely beautiful out there
walk is only 7miles
but lots of uphill over the cliffs
beautiful views
interesting people
it was hard and
so worth it
lunch was at The Anchor Inn in Seatown
a very busy spot
but it was nice to sit inside out of the heat (which was very hot)
I have had to give up not eating bread
the risk of starving to death is very real; between France with their baguettes, cheese, wine and the peas and haricot vert I have been very restricted
feet are holding up fine
had a nice dip (feet only) into the English Channel at the end
staying in a great small old hotel
the bathroom is almost the size of my room at home
off to have dinner--fish and chips for sure!
There is a great harbour here, they were pulling in bags and bags and bags of mussels or clams
there are all these fabulous huts that sell seafood
there are lots of people wandering around
the weather is beautiful
another first day of walking
it is absolutely beautiful out there
walk is only 7miles
but lots of uphill over the cliffs
beautiful views
interesting people
it was hard and
lunch was at The Anchor Inn in Seatown
a very busy spot
but it was nice to sit inside out of the heat (which was very hot)
I have had to give up not eating bread
the risk of starving to death is very real; between France with their baguettes, cheese, wine and the peas and haricot vert I have been very restricted
feet are holding up fine
had a nice dip (feet only) into the English Channel at the end
staying in a great small old hotel
the bathroom is almost the size of my room at home
off to have dinner--fish and chips for sure!
There is a great harbour here, they were pulling in bags and bags and bags of mussels or clams
there are all these fabulous huts that sell seafood
there are lots of people wandering around
the weather is beautiful
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Back in Bayonne??
so we last left off at Refuge Orisson
met some really great people
a foursome from Ireland
a couple from Montreal who have travelled from La Puy in France and been on the road for over a month
the night was as expected
lots of snoring
not much sleep
early morning, breakfast (bread--nope, coffee--nope, hot chocolate--nope, tea --ok, orange juice--ok)
made the decision to not continue over the mountain
although had'nt decided what I was going to do
Dierdre and Colm were also heading back to St Jean to get a taxi to Roncsevalles and meet their other couple
so I caught a lift back with them
they mailed stuff back home (another 4k package)
I bought a bus ticket back for Bayonne and they arranged a taxi to Roncsevalles
back to Ibis Budget
and time to make a plan
which is -- walking tour in England
Jurassic Coast Trail
on the coast of the English Channel
met some really great people
a foursome from Ireland
a couple from Montreal who have travelled from La Puy in France and been on the road for over a month
the night was as expected
lots of snoring
not much sleep
early morning, breakfast (bread--nope, coffee--nope, hot chocolate--nope, tea --ok, orange juice--ok)
made the decision to not continue over the mountain
although had'nt decided what I was going to do
Dierdre and Colm were also heading back to St Jean to get a taxi to Roncsevalles and meet their other couple
so I caught a lift back with them
they mailed stuff back home (another 4k package)
I bought a bus ticket back for Bayonne and they arranged a taxi to Roncsevalles
back to Ibis Budget
and time to make a plan
which is -- walking tour in England
Jurassic Coast Trail
on the coast of the English Channel
off to the post office and train station (or bus station--as we had given our train tickets away last night in hopes of finding an earlier bus)
post office was a bit of a pain
we had to find an internet cafe in order to obtain a Brussels address for Mel to send her 7lbs of overload to
ended up taking an hour and we had 20 minutes to get to our bus
(I ended up heading over to the station for our tickets--which turned out to be bus tickets --no train service between Bayonne and St Jean until June 28)
and we were on the same bus as our new friends from Ottawa
the omes who had our tickets
total milk run to St Jean, but it kept getting more and more beautiful with the mountains in the background
we arrived at about 12:30,
had to make our way to the Pilgrims Office to get our Pilgrim's Passport and shell
they made a phone call to Refuge Orisson so that we had a reservation
good thing too, they did reply to my email but said we had to be there by 2pm we didn't leave St Jean until 1:15 so we would definitely not have made it; and we did arrive just in time as the Pilgrim Office was closing as we finished
the girl behind us got into their 'overflow refuge' which was a kilometre down the road, a great annoyance at dinnertime when they had to come up and down
ok the walk what can I say about this torture
I thought i was in pretty god shape
I have been working out for months and did a special tone-up with Julie at the gym
I don't think that anything can prepare you for this hell
and it was absolute torture
it was stinking hot
I had not been eating
they said it was 2 hours up to Orisson (8k away)
after 2 1/2 hours we were about halfway there
I finally sat on the side of the road and sent Melanie on her way
I approached a vehicle and made him stop for me
I asked him if he would take me to Orisson and he said (in his lovely French accent -- 'if you wish'
as we drove up into the mountains I was so grateful to not be walking, it was freaking brutal
ß
post office was a bit of a pain
we had to find an internet cafe in order to obtain a Brussels address for Mel to send her 7lbs of overload to
ended up taking an hour and we had 20 minutes to get to our bus
(I ended up heading over to the station for our tickets--which turned out to be bus tickets --no train service between Bayonne and St Jean until June 28)
and we were on the same bus as our new friends from Ottawa
the omes who had our tickets
total milk run to St Jean, but it kept getting more and more beautiful with the mountains in the background
we arrived at about 12:30,
had to make our way to the Pilgrims Office to get our Pilgrim's Passport and shell
they made a phone call to Refuge Orisson so that we had a reservation
good thing too, they did reply to my email but said we had to be there by 2pm we didn't leave St Jean until 1:15 so we would definitely not have made it; and we did arrive just in time as the Pilgrim Office was closing as we finished
the girl behind us got into their 'overflow refuge' which was a kilometre down the road, a great annoyance at dinnertime when they had to come up and down
ok the walk what can I say about this torture
I thought i was in pretty god shape
I have been working out for months and did a special tone-up with Julie at the gym
I don't think that anything can prepare you for this hell
and it was absolute torture
it was stinking hot
I had not been eating
they said it was 2 hours up to Orisson (8k away)
after 2 1/2 hours we were about halfway there
I finally sat on the side of the road and sent Melanie on her way
I approached a vehicle and made him stop for me
I asked him if he would take me to Orisson and he said (in his lovely French accent -- 'if you wish'
as we drove up into the mountains I was so grateful to not be walking, it was freaking brutal
ß
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
bordeaux wineries
up bright and early
so we did the winery thing with five other ladies and a tour guide named Bruno
we went to the first one
it was lovely
has been around since 1760's
still family run -- not the same family
and it was a great tour
the 2nd one is owned by a huge conglomerate
and was big and nice
beautiful chateau
great tour
they served a tasting of a wine that cost €115
one was called Chateau Lascombes,
Melanie really enjoyed that
it was a horribly rainy day
we got back to Bordeaux
had a great lunch
then collected our bags for our train journey
our train was 45 minutes delayed
the two people directly facing us were coughing and blowing their noses and sneezing
I hope we don't get it (and luckily we didn't)
in Bayonne now
huge walk to the hotel
met a father/daughter set of hikers from Ottawa
they are staying at the same hotel as us (turns out he is a friend/colleague of Kathy Armstrong, what an incredibly small world)
we are off to lose some weight from our bags
and set off for St Jean in the morning
it is a grayer day here
16° now
heading for 18° and rainy afternoon
packing up our huge and heavy backpacks
then off to visit two wineries
so we did the winery thing with five other ladies and a tour guide named Bruno
we went to the first one
it was lovely
has been around since 1760's
still family run -- not the same family
and it was a great tour
the 2nd one is owned by a huge conglomerate
and was big and nice
beautiful chateau
great tour
they served a tasting of a wine that cost €115
one was called Chateau Lascombes,
Melanie really enjoyed that
it was a horribly rainy day
we got back to Bordeaux
had a great lunch
then collected our bags for our train journey
our train was 45 minutes delayed
the two people directly facing us were coughing and blowing their noses and sneezing
I hope we don't get it (and luckily we didn't)
in Bayonne now
huge walk to the hotel
met a father/daughter set of hikers from Ottawa
they are staying at the same hotel as us (turns out he is a friend/colleague of Kathy Armstrong, what an incredibly small world)
we are off to lose some weight from our bags
and set off for St Jean in the morning
bordeaux
we are in Bordeaux
we had a great train ride
except for the spot when they stopped the train and made a staticky announcement which we could not understand
our seatmate informed us that there was a suicide up ahead
holy crap -- not how we expected our train trip to turn out
we were on our way very quickly and had one more short wait
we arrived about 15 minutes late -- no big deal we don't have to be anywhere
we arrived at our hostel
it is beautiful
king and twin bed
4th floor (with elevator)
inside bathroom
we headed out to book a wine tour and ended up walking until almost 9:00
it is about 15° warmer here than Paris
we had an awesome day
now we are having parma ham, smoked salmon, olives, baguette and cheese
oh and this -- picture a bottle of Bordeaux
i can't download it from my kobo
actually I just put it on facebook
ok we are bagged
eating
and we have a wine tour tomorrow morning
ttfn
we had a great train ride
except for the spot when they stopped the train and made a staticky announcement which we could not understand
our seatmate informed us that there was a suicide up ahead
holy crap -- not how we expected our train trip to turn out
we were on our way very quickly and had one more short wait
we arrived about 15 minutes late -- no big deal we don't have to be anywhere
we arrived at our hostel
it is beautiful
king and twin bed
4th floor (with elevator)
inside bathroom
we headed out to book a wine tour and ended up walking until almost 9:00
it is about 15° warmer here than Paris
we had an awesome day
now we are having parma ham, smoked salmon, olives, baguette and cheese
oh and this -- picture a bottle of Bordeaux
i can't download it from my kobo
actually I just put it on facebook
ok we are bagged
eating
and we have a wine tour tomorrow morning
ttfn
well i managed to get up and about and headed out for a walk around the block
i bumped into some Brits who were looking for Sacre Coeur
unfortunately i had no idea how to get there
i wandered around a bit more and bought some amazing fruit
brought it back to the room
left a note for Mel that i was heading up to the church
as i was wanderimg back down the street another woman approached me
i preemptively said 'sorry' anticipating that she was going to ask for directions to a location I didn't know
and it was Mel.
i didnt recognixe her at all
so off we went to find Sacre Coeur
what an amazing tour
another 112 stairs up
ffs
then we wandered around
went inside
it is beautiful
Mel noticed some people taking photos way up in a dome
and wanted to go there as well
so up we went
300 steps
we are so ready for the Pyrenees
what a spectacular view from the top of the church
we are off to Bordeaux in the morning
we have loved our time in Paris
i bumped into some Brits who were looking for Sacre Coeur
unfortunately i had no idea how to get there
i wandered around a bit more and bought some amazing fruit
brought it back to the room
left a note for Mel that i was heading up to the church
as i was wanderimg back down the street another woman approached me
i preemptively said 'sorry' anticipating that she was going to ask for directions to a location I didn't know
and it was Mel.
i didnt recognixe her at all
so off we went to find Sacre Coeur
what an amazing tour
another 112 stairs up
ffs
then we wandered around
went inside
it is beautiful
Mel noticed some people taking photos way up in a dome
and wanted to go there as well
so up we went
300 steps
we are so ready for the Pyrenees
what a spectacular view from the top of the church
we are off to Bordeaux in the morning
we have loved our time in Paris
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Remember don't eat the bread
Jet lag has hit -- big
Melanie is off exploring on her own
as I was too blah to head out with her
caught up on some zzzz's
and feel refreshed
must remember not to eat the bread
it is delicious; but after two months of no bread it was a bit of a shock to the system
off to see some of the city
Melanie is off exploring on her own
as I was too blah to head out with her
caught up on some zzzz's
and feel refreshed
must remember not to eat the bread
it is delicious; but after two months of no bread it was a bit of a shock to the system
off to see some of the city
Monday, June 10, 2013
stairs stairs and more stairs
so there are 112 stairs at the Metro Station
which is fine going down
but we did come home
and it was still 112 stairs
then a frantic search for a rest stop (by which i mean toilet)
because weren't there another f**king 112 stairs waiting for us
thank you M Crepe guy
catching up on screens
going to eat
and then big sleep
which is fine going down
but we did come home
and it was still 112 stairs
then a frantic search for a rest stop (by which i mean toilet)
because weren't there another f**king 112 stairs waiting for us
thank you M Crepe guy
catching up on screens
going to eat
and then big sleep
paris and Champs Elysees
wow what a busy day in Paris
arrived early
and by the time I took the train to the Gard du Nord I had about five minutes to meet Melanie's train
i stood on the other side of the glass from the Thalyse wondering how i would connect with her
i finally realized i could use my train ticket as a transfer
got to the arrivals with one minute to spare
her train was on the dot
we were so excited to see one another
it was a pretty surreal experience
we walked over to the hostel
which was supposed to be very close, at least by looking at the map
but i had to dump my used luggage first (I was worried about my backpack being wrecked on the plane and bought a $7 used suitcase from the Salvation Army to put my new backpack in)
turns out getting rid of an old unwanted suitcase is quite difficult to do in Paris
i put my backpack on and carried the used suitcase around empty for a while
i finally opened it up and left it under a suspended garbage can
then we walked the three block three hour zig-zag walk to the hostel
seriously
it was insane
we know every nook and cranny of Montmarte
finally into the room for some unloading of baggage
and off for an adventure
down to the Champs Elysees for some window shopping
and tons of walking
it is now 6pm here
we are heading out to eat
arrived early
and by the time I took the train to the Gard du Nord I had about five minutes to meet Melanie's train
i stood on the other side of the glass from the Thalyse wondering how i would connect with her
i finally realized i could use my train ticket as a transfer
got to the arrivals with one minute to spare
her train was on the dot
we were so excited to see one another
it was a pretty surreal experience
we walked over to the hostel
which was supposed to be very close, at least by looking at the map
but i had to dump my used luggage first (I was worried about my backpack being wrecked on the plane and bought a $7 used suitcase from the Salvation Army to put my new backpack in)
turns out getting rid of an old unwanted suitcase is quite difficult to do in Paris
i put my backpack on and carried the used suitcase around empty for a while
i finally opened it up and left it under a suspended garbage can
then we walked the three block three hour zig-zag walk to the hostel
seriously
it was insane
we know every nook and cranny of Montmarte
finally into the room for some unloading of baggage
and off for an adventure
down to the Champs Elysees for some window shopping
and tons of walking
it is now 6pm here
we are heading out to eat
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Friday, June 7, 2013
Gearing up
Well, part of our journey has begun. Melanie is now in Europe, I am heading over very soon.
I was worried about how my knapsack would handle the travel, especially considering how my new Heys ended up after travelling to Windsor a few weeks ago. Amanda and I went to Salvation Army yesterday looking for used luggage. We found one that's a good size, the thinking is that the knapsack will travel inside the used luggage (and save on wear and tear), then the luggage will stay in Europe. It was half price day at Goodwill, so for $7.50 I got a great piece of Samsonite (I think it is from 1950) but it will definitely keep my bag intact for the journey. Almost packed now (must rethink taking the entire medicine chest, I know there will be lots of places to stop and shop along the way), And, we are almost off!!
I was worried about how my knapsack would handle the travel, especially considering how my new Heys ended up after travelling to Windsor a few weeks ago. Amanda and I went to Salvation Army yesterday looking for used luggage. We found one that's a good size, the thinking is that the knapsack will travel inside the used luggage (and save on wear and tear), then the luggage will stay in Europe. It was half price day at Goodwill, so for $7.50 I got a great piece of Samsonite (I think it is from 1950) but it will definitely keep my bag intact for the journey. Almost packed now (must rethink taking the entire medicine chest, I know there will be lots of places to stop and shop along the way), And, we are almost off!!
Monday, June 3, 2013
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